Catch Can Thread

oddball · Nov 7, 2018

Totally normal. Condensation will get trapped in the can with the oil and make it soupy. The rate just depends on your driving habits, climate, etc.

STINGER · Nov 14, 2018

Installed the UPR check valve, comes with 1/2 barb option on both ends for my hose size. Not necessary to have in my case but additional precaution and to avoid pressuring the catch can, looks better as well.

MurlinatoR · Nov 14, 2018

My can has a constant vacuum on it.

STINGER · Nov 14, 2018

MurlinatoR said:

Hai!? i dont understand.

MurlinatoR · Nov 14, 2018

STINGER said:

Just saying that, when my car is running, that there is a constant vacuum in my occ system. My catch can has a dipstick to check fluid levels and it surprised me the first time that I tried to pull it out as the can sucked it back in and out of my fingers. LOL

Chris · Nov 14, 2018

So I just ticked 2K on mine and have been toying with the idea of doing this. I had one on my SP Challenger but didn't think the ole Kia would need it until I read every page. Thanks to you all for the info and pics! will be looking into this very soon.

DesertStinger · Nov 15, 2018

SXTH Element Engineering Kia Stinger catch cans

robz32 · Nov 15, 2018

Those look pretty good.

Kazz · Nov 18, 2018

MurlinatoR said:

I'm hearing that catch cans aren't a good thing for those of us that get very cold weather. Based on your location, I'm waiting to hear what you find.

Chi-Guy · Nov 18, 2018

Kazz said:

Interesting, I'm interested too.

MurlinatoR · Nov 19, 2018

Kazz said:

Well [MENTION=328]Kazz[/MENTION], I'm not sure why it would make a difference other than possibly having the fluid in the can freezing.

So far, I haven't noticed any issues or had any problems. I'm also still only at 4k miles. I'll check the contents at my 5,000 LOF.

Also gonna have my hatch rattle taken care of then as well.

brandon.mol · Nov 28, 2018

After having the Tork cans installed for about 8000km, I found zero fluid in the front one, despite having pulled 6 or so ounces total out of the rear one. I have the drain valves on them and use my Blackstone labs oil sample vacuum pump to pull fluid out in place.

My observation is that if you have a check valve, you don't need the front one since you never push positive pressure back into the crankcase, so it never really vents much of anything out the other side which is the only reason any amount of oil most would exit there. So I removed the front can, since it was bone dry, and therefore useless.

PCV valves always leak under boost in other cars I've had, in my experience actually pressure testing them while hunting down boost leaks. I doubt this one is any different.

Anyone experience any significant collection of fluid from the front despite having a check valve at the rear?

oddball · Nov 28, 2018

brandon.mol said:

Nope! That's not what the fresh air can is for. The collection in that can will always be very slow, and it's not as critical as the PCV can, but it still is worthwhile.

Under heavy load there's significantly more blowby into the crankcase. On FI cars that blowby can't be pulled in by the PCV because the manifold is pressurized. So it gets pushed out the fresh air intake. Like all modern cars this is connected to the intake track just after the air filter, so in normal use it'll get clean air, and under heavy load the blowby gasses will get sucked into the engine. This blowby will be oily, but not necessarily as bad or as much as the normal PCV airflow.

brandon.mol · Nov 28, 2018

Thanks for that info, however I respectfully disagree about "not what it's for". I get everything else you say, and agree, however a more significant source of crankcase pressure than blow-by is boost leaking back through your PCV valve back into the crankcase, where it has nowhere else to go but out the valve cover breather line. Blow-by is nothing compared to that. Like I said, I don't know how well sealed the PCV valve is on these cars, but in the Subaru Legacy GT I had previously, I could expect no more than 20k miles on a PCV valve before it wasn't holding back 18 psi of boost.

My point then, was that by removing boost pressure from the PCV valve via a check valve, one substantially reduces the out flow of vapour from the valve cover breather line.

This is my hypothesis, and so I ask whether anyone else with dual cans and a check valve on the PCV side can, has any significant condensate accumulation on the breather side, because I had zero. Bone dry. I cleaned the lines before and after they were still clean and dry. Not even an oily residue. I'll do that again even. This tells me that while in theory it might seem to make sense to have two catch cans, in practice its not useful if you have the check valve.

But maybe others have different experience, yourself included?

STINGER · Nov 28, 2018

brandon.mol said:

Thanks for that info, however I respectfully disagree about "not what it's for". I get everything else you say, and agree, however a more significant source of crankcase pressure than blow-by is boost leaking back through your PCV valve back into the crankcase, where it has nowhere else to go but out the valve cover breather line. Blow-by is nothing compared to that. Like I said, I don't know how well sealed the PCV valve is on these cars, but in the Subaru Legacy GT I had previously, I could expect no more than 20k miles on a PCV valve before it wasn't holding back 18 psi of boost.

My point then, was that by removing boost pressure from the PCV valve via a check valve, one substantially reduces the out flow of vapour from the valve cover breather line.

This is my hypothesis, and so I ask whether anyone else with dual cans and a check valve on the PCV side can, has any significant condensate accumulation on the breather side, because I had zero. Bone dry. I cleaned the lines before and after they were still clean and dry. Not even an oily residue. I'll do that again even. This tells me that while in theory it might seem to make sense to have two catch cans, in practice its not useful if you have the check valve.

But maybe others have different experience, yourself included?

Mine was bone dry as well, but once I installed the JB4 and the boost was increased it started collecting.

robz32 · Nov 28, 2018

^^^This

Once you increase the boost you will start accumulating oil on the breather side as you will start getting blow by, due to the increase in pressure.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

KamikazeGT · Dec 1, 2018

SXTH Element 3.3TT Dual Catch Can Kit coming soon

Chris · Dec 2, 2018

Looks like a clean setup.

Nolan769 · Dec 2, 2018

I know I'm in the minority, but I put the ADD W1 on my 2.0T. Functions well and looks good.

<a href="https://ibb.co/JmZMRpV"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/yd2bnkt/IMG-20181202-124740.jpg" alt="IMG-20181202-124740" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/MDkN0pq"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/TBMh3Rz/IMG-20181202-124735.jpg" alt="IMG-20181202-124735" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/CMKVnrk"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/vQ4LJt7/IMG-20181202-124729.jpg" alt="IMG-20181202-124729" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/dt677jx"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/vhmDDVR/IMG-20181202-124715.jpg" alt="IMG-20181202-124715" border="0"></a>

3.3Turbo4me · Dec 2, 2018

Looks great

Nolan769 said:

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